Hatch cover leaks

I have been advised that to make my blog more interesting I should sex it up. We’ll see.

Hatch trim fitted.

I discovered lots of water in the bilges last week and my electric bilge pump pant took about five minutes to empty it. I had known there were leaks coming through in a small way but we haven’t had much rain over the summer and so I hadn’t really bothered. Now I’m really wet I thought I better do something about it.

I have therefore installed the hatch surround in the hope that that will enable the water leaks around the hatch to stay outside the boat and drain out through the hatch drains.

I have also fitted a new lock to the door so that we have a semblance of security on the boat.

I have now received a pull-off solenoid system to use as an engine cut-off. Written in Chinese I hope I can wire it up properly. That will be the last part of the engine wiring I think and so I can install the Control Panel in the cockpit.

I have also manufactured the Perspex cover for the Control Panel and bought some nice new hinges. All I need now is to buy a latch to keep it closed and it’ll be fully ready.

With winter on the way (not here yet Met Office), and time available to work on Anne-Marie short, I should be dabbling here and there on jobs. Mostly I will do work at home but I shall also try to get there as much as possible although I do have other things to do.

24 November

Autumn is coming to a close and winter is about to start and the weather is suitably cold and damp at Rye.

It looks like iroko is going to be the wood of choice for our seating in the cockpitbut we have to be careful about choosing the right material. It seems that you have to get the grain correct with iroko. No doubt I will get to understand why later.

Otherwise I have almost finished the engine cooling system. The raw water pipe work is now complete and all connected but when I tested it with a hose pipe water cascaded out of the primary filter. Fortunately a spare kit can be bought from Venus and that arrived in the post a couple of days ago. This has a new lid which was cracked and two new rubber seals. That should do the trick.

I’m going to extend the floor in the heads because you’ve got to be able to get your feet on the floor when you’re sitting on the loo. Then I have to reinforce the floor area and seal it with resin.

I have started fitting the hinges and catches to the bow anchor-

Raymarine Sea-Talk interface cable

well hatch cover. It’s looking pretty good however I made the mistake of putting fresh resin out in the weather and it’s gone a little cloudy. I will need to sand it down and then put some Coelan on it to match the rest.

I have received the link cable which goes between the new Raymarine axiom 7 navigation screen and the 4000 ST autopilot. I’ll be testing this out in the coming weeks. This will be done off the boat.

I have also been manufacturing a new Perspex cover for the engine controls and have now got that correctly fitting and I’ve just bought some new hinges for that to work. I now need a latch.

Also my alternator was not giving a reading for the rev counter. It did not have an AC outlet which acts as a sender for electronic rev counters. Fortunately I found ElectroGen in Bethersden local to us and they were able to solder a little wire in the back. Now the rev counter the work will too.

Alternator with new W wire for rev counter

Repair kit for primary raw water filter
First catch fitted to hatch. Note cloudy surface caused by fresh epoxy resin getting wet
Acetal bar ready for turning into a bearing

I have received a 60 mm diameter rod of acetal plastic which surveyor Chris is going to turn up into a top bearing for the steering pedestal.

The old bearing which took a lot of getting out appeared to be an old wheel bearing and had disintegrated completely over the years.

Once the bearing is manufactured and installed then painting the pedestal is the last bit for getting the steering ready for installation. Once installed we can go sailing. Well we can take the boat out and steer which is a big advantage over where we are at the moment. That will be a good chance to test the engine and use Anne Marie in earnest. However I will need change insurance and get the survey properly sorted to the satisfaction of the insurance company beforehand.

Fortunately we are halfway through with the survey because we asked Chris the surveyor to do the first part of it when the boat was on dry land. As he is helping with the fit out he’s in the best position to do the final survey and write reports.

Onwards and upwards.

Alternative to teak

We are refurbishing the cockpit seating area for Anne-Marie and trying to use the old teak planking from the main cabin roof. Unfortunately it is so full of nails and also splits too easily so we can’t use it.

Teak is now a rare come commodity and I need to find an alternative timber for marine use. I am looking for about 2 m² in total that can be made into strips 50 mm wide and 8 to 10 mm thick.

Has anyone got any thoughts about where I might find cheap-ish timber. I’m not particularly worried about lengths although it would be good to have timber in lengths more than 600 long.

Cutting of the larger planks and planing or shaping the timber is not going to be a problem so big planks would be okay as well.

I am in England so I need to be able to source it in the south of the country.

Any thoughts would be gratefully appreciated. I do after all want to look my best.

Thanks

Anne-Marie (Mike)

Update 14 November 2018

So over the last fortnight we’ve been doing lots of things off the boat:

1.  Manufacturing a new Perspex cover for the engine controls.
2.  Tidying up the wiring and creating a new wiring loom in the engine bay.
3.  Fixing the new fuel sender into the panel that goes on the top of the fuel tank.
4.  Removing redundant fuel lines which we think served a diesel heater.
5.  Removed an old diesel fuel filter as there are already plenty there.
6.  Meeting Christian from IMP on board (www.improducts.co.uk/marine) to discuss lighting needs and blinds for the windows and hatches.  He was very helpful and we are looking forward to doing business with him.
7.  Planning the electrical circuits.
8.  Building a new battery box.
9.  Cleaning out all our stored materials to see what we still need to keep. 10.  Digging out the old hot water tank and planning how that will refit into the engine compartment and be linked to the engine internal water cooling system.
11.  Looking at the alternator to see how I might retrofit a W cable – a W cable is the sender which gives the rev meter information to show the engine revs.
12.  Cleaning up and re-storing the engine hours counter which we found in the engine compartment. It still works so we will wire it into the navigation systems and have it on display properly.
13.  Making up new teak covers for the cockpit seating and hatches.

14.  Making and fitting the new hatch cover to the bow deck locker.

15.  Fitting the waste tank into the heads and putting the WC in place for dry-fitting the waste pipes.

Key start!

Well after three days of tracing wires in the old wiring loom and cross-matching them to the control panel guess what!  We have the engine starting from the key in the cockpit.

Note the shiny refurbished control panel.

Check out the video.  There are a few issues to sort out still so more updates to come

Update 22nd October

2018-10-13-16-41-28.jpg2018-10-13-16-41-38.jpg2018-10-13-16-41-16.jpg2018-10-13 12.35.302018-10-13 11.46.322018-10-13-11-32-57.jpgWell the weather is just lovely and don’t we wish we had Anne Marie finished six months ago?  What a summer it has been on the south coast of England.

The last week has seen us really getting Anne Marie ready for winter.  Colean is a massively expensive paint but it really does the trick with teak.  You must however keep the lid on as it cures in double quick time with moisture in the air.  We (Carrie actually) have taken to pouring small amounts into a container and using that before getting more out.

The other thing we have noticed is that the Germans (it’s a German product) don’t like you to take the lid off more than once as the lids are very lightweight.  They just bend.

I have also gone round and filled all the toe-rail teak plugs as they were not weather proof.  Epoxy mixed with team dust and colloidal silica filler has done the trick.. A bit of sanding once set and you wouldn’t notice (much).

We have also been doing the engine wiring (still).  It has taken a long time tracking the wiring loom from the cockpit to the engine compartment and then extending the wires to the correct length.  The old loom had been cut, melted and just plain adjusted so we are spending time getting things right.

Lastly we have been taking off the cockpit seats to replace/repair them.  The old teak strips are in poor condition but the plywood sheeting upon which they are mounted has completely rotted away.

Oh and I have put the mizzen boom on the boat.  Hopeful I know but at least I am getting a hard head where I keep bashing it getting in and out of the cockpit!

 

Another week towards first trip

Well the Perkins 4.108 engine is still going and we are currently tracing the wiring loom to the control panel so that we can get the system working from the cockpit.

The reconditioned engine is quite old and doesn’t have glowplugs. It uses an old system to pre-heat some fuel, injected at the air intake, with an igniter. The hot (flaming) air going into the engine is supposed to be good enough to enable the engine to start.

We have a slight leak on the cold start chamber. Not sure what it does but I can buy a new one for 90 Euro from Poland!

Trouble is the wiring loom is for a glowplug engine so we are adjusting it to suit the new engine. One of the gauges is rusty (the battery condition voltage) so I am going to change it for the fuel gauge. The battery condition can be put somewhere else.

We have also painted the teak hand rails and wash boards which look great.

I have refurbished the control panel which is a great improvement.

Finally we have put a second coat of paint on the cabin roof.