You know how some people keep things ” just in case”. Well here is a great example of why such a philosophy is important. 

Many years ago I laid a new floor at cherry tree farm – one of those floating ones that are so the rage. I bought a pack of wedges to keep it in place as it is laid and then I put them in the garage convinced that one day they would be useful. 

Well here they are keeping the hull and deck apart while I clean out the roots and old rubbish that has gradually filled the gap and allowed the water to get in. Tomorrow the sealant goes in and the two parts are bolted together. 

I’ll put them back in the garage later.   Just in case. 

Galvanising the chain plates

Strictly speaking chain plates are fixed to the hull vertically and the shrouds are attached to them at deck level. In Anne Marie’s case the chain plates are fixed under the deck spreading the load from the shrouds to the deck and hull. Like most things in this boat time has caused damage. In this case rust due to salt water leaking through the deck. Still a little trip to Chatham and hey presto.  

via Galvanising the chain plates — Saving Anne Marie

Sea cocks!

There are six seacocks on the boat and I have just bought new ones. £770 ouch. But it’s worth it if we don’t sink. 

Why does the boat leak?

Great big gap for water to go in

That’s why. The joint between the cabin top and the hull is a) full of roots; b) full of holes from all those fittings, and c) lacking in essential sealant.

What to do?

Scrape it out. Squeeze in gunk. Bolt together. Fill all unnecessary holes. Fibreglass the joint properly. Spread more gunk. Place the new deck sections. Bolt them or screw them down. Put the Toe rail back ( after spreading more gunk). Put another layer of fibreglass resin over the whole thing. Get new posh “plastic teak planking” put on. Fix all the fittings all with lots of gunk.

Teak Toe Rail and Rubbing Strake

The Toe rail prevents people and things falling off the side of the boat. The rubbing strake helps to prevent damage to the boat when it is bumping up against other objects such as quay sides.

I need to gain access to the side decks to seal the hull-to-deck joint and that means removing the toe rail. Here we have the stern toe rail (with the new deck sheets being fitted).


The stern toe rail with new deck being tested. See the black rubbing strake bottom left.
Toe rail and rubbing strake hanging loose
Toe rail removed with rotten section lower left
Rot is clearly visible as are the bolts which supposedly hold this in place
More of the same!
Here you can see the toe rail, the black rubbing strake and the separate teak plank between

On the sides of the boat there is a second plank of teak rubbing strake beneath the black rubber one

Toe rail – starboard quarter – being removed.

The toe rail is fixed by large bolts through the hull and supposedly sealed with marine sealant.  The rubbing strakes are screwed to the toe rail.

You can see from the photograph that part of the toe rail is rotten . I will need to cut out the rotten section and glue in some new pieces. The Toe rail will also need to be sanded down and treated with teak oil or varnish.

I am taking all the Toe rails off except the very bow sections.  They are coming off quite easily which is worrying. I will explain the way to seal the joints between deck and hull in the future.


Ship’s barometer gets a polish

Shame I didn’t take a photograph before I started. However this was really corroded and tarnished. You can see that the Top has been left uncleaned in the first photograph so you can see the comparison between clean and dirty. 

I am not sure it tells the correct pressure but it does look pretty good. 

Deck day 4

Well this is what Anne Marie looks like with her new decking – Er you have to use your imagination. Rusty is trying to decide whether he wants to be a sea dog/skipper. 

The big gap is the cabin and the small square is the fore hatch.